Making latex weapons

[Chief]

Yeah I think that is what it is up to. I buy mine in bulk, and through my business so, I tend to get it a lot cheaper. You will find that it is worth it, the weapons will last a long time. Also, if you are interested I just put up a simple page the details a design upgrade I added to the basic tutorial.

Still working out some of the bumps, but if you use the new method it add a lot of strength to the weapon. This is the design we use for full power blows.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v315/midlandlrp/?action=view¤t=WeaponUpgrade-1.jpg
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Nothing beats a friend like a rubber sword...

[TraconEdgar]

Is the outer foam from a 1 1/2" sheet of Plstazote, constructed from 1/2" sheets of plastazote, or just simply open cell foam?
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Edgar(at)realmsoftracon.com

http://www.realmsoftracon.com

[Chief]

The outer edge is constrcuted from 1/2 plastazote [a strip 1/2 think and with a width equal to the width of the finished basic weapon]. I plan to make an edit to the instructions to make that a bit clearer.

However, if you wanted to skip the latex and make a cheaper weapon, you could use EVA or camping mat on the outer edge [and the inner edge for that matter]. Cover it with cloth or duct tape and it will look nice.

I would avoid open cell since it basically has no protective properties what so ever. Around here will call it "peace of mind" foam, since the addition of open cell to a weapon is basically a sugar pill but I'm biased.
_________________
Nothing beats a friend like a rubber sword...

[TraconEdgar]

I think I will try making a camping pad weapon using the latex method. Is there any reason it wouldn't work to coat the camping pad with latex? While camp pad isn't as workable as plastazote, it would probably look better than your average weapon.

I do have lots of experience making standard PVC padded weapons. This is probably the nicest sword I've made so far using standard padding methods:



If you're more interested in how it was constructed, I posted this for a Cosplay forum a while back:

http://www.realmsoftracon.com/zelda/ms.html

I've also made a pretty nice shield. Note that right now it is complete, (the picture was when it wasn't complete). The triforces are now yellow, and I also put the 'snakes' on either side of the triforce.

http://www.realmsoftracon.com/zelda/shield.jpg

I think latex will be the answer once I get a business license and can find a vendor with cheaper prices. Can you provide contact info for that place in CA where you were able to get sheets for cheap with a bulk order?

EDIT: Changed sword pic to a smaller pic so as not to increase the forum width off the screen.
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Edgar(at)realmsoftracon.com

http://www.realmsoftracon.com

[Malor]

Latex in general does not stick too well on a camp pad. Smartest is to coat the camp pad first with a thin layer of bisontix or similar glue product, leave it to dry and then apply the latex.

Cya,
Sander
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Whoever said "Beauty is in the eye of the Beholder" never played D&D

[Chief]

The big problem with camping mat is the fact it turns to dust under stress and creates these aweful little bubbles in the latex. Granted it does not really ruin the weapon, but it is a pain in the ass after going through so much effort.
_________________
Nothing beats a friend like a rubber sword...

[molotov02]

The best foam for weapons is 'LD-Black' also fairly expensive.

In Holland we use either a foam specialist store (rare) or some of the LARP shops who have the stuff. nowadays, some even sell DIY kits with the core, thinker slide-on piece for the handle, several sizes of foam and guard piece(even sturdier foam).

I do have some good guides on how to build latex weapons and how to latex, but unfortunately, they are written in Dutch. And for now, I don’t have the time to translate them. But the instructions on this topic should definitely help you create a fine weapon.

one tip I can give; use brandnew, supersharp knives. foam will blunt them before you know it.
a other technique producing very nice smooth results;
take a bench-screw, place a sanding machine upside down on it, so that the sanding area is at the same hight as the clams from the bench-screw.
then, slide the foam over it. the foam should be sanded out very smouthly. do wear a bandana over your mouth though.

Just a side note, I was always told by experienced builders, that you should take into account that your first three big weapons will fail somehow. Best to start at something small like a dagger to learn the techniques. Then you can always scale up.

[TraconEdgar]

Well, I've acquired almost all the necessary materials, and have started on my latex weapon project. I haven't completed the core as I found out that I don't want a hose that can be built up for the tip of the weapon, but rather one that can be cross cut to make it smaller. But I have made one design change.

Instead of using bar stock for the handle, I got some 5 1/2" metal pipe for the handle. Unfortunately, the PVC is just a tiny bit (probably 1/32 of an inch) too large, so I had to sand it down. But when fitting it, the pipe got stuck onto the PVC. So I decided to just pound it in really good, thereby extending the overall length of the weapon by probably 4".

For fabric tape for the handle, I found that a sporting goods store is the place to go. Look in the baseball bat section, and you can find foam padding wrap along with fabric wrap, sometimes in various different colors, to wrap around the handle.

For the hose, probably the best option is to go to Lowes or Home Depot and get some air hose. It's about as flexible as radiator hose (hopefully) and costs about 30 cents per foot.

I also have some blue camp pad from Wal Mart which I sanded to rough up the surface. I'm going to simultaneously build a latex weapon out of both plastazote and the camp pad. I already notice that I'll have to use 5 layers of camp pad as it is thinner. Also the finish won't be as good as the plastazote. But if it works, then great. It will all depend on how well the base coat adheres to the foam.

I'm going to cut the plastazote narrower than recommended when making the "cricket bat". This should save me some foam since I will be going all around in the "re-inforced" version.

Speaking of strength, chief, have you tried using "adhesive rivets"? To do this you would lightly perforate the foam on the sides that get stuck together so as to form pockets where the adhesive goes deeper into the foam. It's a technique I've heard of used in high power rocketry where you glue fins onto a rocket using "epoxy rivets". You basically drill small holes on both surfaces to be adhered to so that the epoxy will cure in rivet or dowel-like structures, thus adding to the overall strength of the bond.

On the other hand, perhaps there is an even better adhesive alternative for the foam. Ideally, the foam should fail before the adhesive holding it together does. (Is this the case with DAP?)

Unfortunately, Lowes stopped carrying the clear roof sealant I was going to get. But I think I've tracked some down to camping stores. They seem to have brushable clear roof sealant for RF roofs.

One final question - has anybody ever tried thinning down colored acrylic latex paint and using that in lieu of mold builder?
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http://www.realmsoftracon.com

[Chief]

I don't know, with the current design the weapons just don't fall apart. I have never really had a need to expand the gluing in the tutorial beyond the suggested methods. I guess you could try the rivets, and see if you need them. I just reached a point where the life span of the weapon made me happy.

There are other methods to put the latex cover on [or even things other than latex], but using raw paint is not a good option. Raw paint just does not have the properties you are looking for.

DAP is almost just something to get the weapon pieces to "stay put" before I get the latex on. If you are using the hard hitting upgrade to the tutorial, the weapon basically holds itself together, the latex constricting the pieces in place.

Honestly, if it was not a pain the ass, you could build the weapon without glue, perhaps someday I will try it
_________________
Nothing beats a friend like a rubber sword...

[TraconEdgar]

Perhaps I'll have to build a sword using the standard method and see how long it lasts compared to the beefed up swrod. Once the latex dries, how strong is it? Is it comparable to the strength one would find in a pair of latex gloves? Since there are 5 layers (IIRC), I guess it would actually be pretty strong.
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Edgar(at)realmsoftracon.com

http://www.realmsoftracon.com

[Chief]

Not having done any sort of real tests, I can say that the latex on the weapon is a crud load stronger than a latex glove I remember an event not too long ago where a sword seperated from the core. The latex was holding the weapon in one piece, but for fun we decided to tear it apart.

We actually had two fellows pulling on the blade like a tug of war in an attempt to rip it free of the core. The latex never ripped, and eventually we gave up. The latex returned to almost normal size, and to tell you the truth we could have continued to use the sword.

That was a standard weapon, not the upgraded version. The sad part about it is that since the upgraded tutorial I have added even more features making the weapons contact with the core even stronger.
_________________
Nothing beats a friend like a rubber sword...

[TuralyonGilnea]

Alright guys whats the difference between white and pink pzote? I used white on my first prototype it worked fine it seemed, though i messed up on alot of other stuff overall it went good, so should i stick with white? it is alot cheaper, or is the benefit of the pink that much more?

[TraconEdgar]

The color of the plastazote tells how firm or soft the material is. Here's what I got from one manufacturer's site:

"Pink Plastazote molds quickly to the foot during weight bearing, enhancing total contact. White Plastazote is more supportive and retains its cushion longer."

I started with the foam cutting today, but I have to say I wish I didn't cut the pink stuff the same as the blue camp pad. It shouldn't be too big a deal, however, it should still go together just fine. The other weapon will be made with the foam cut a little wider.

I found that with 1/2" PVC, the plastazote is indeed thinner than the pipe, so I'm having to clamp down the foam on both sides for drying. If this goes well and I decide to continue, I think I'll use 3/4" plastazote for the middle layer, with 1/2" on the outsides so the overall thickness doesn't increase too dramatically.

Speaking of plastazote, I found that if you order 6 sheets, it's $30/sheet instead of $40 (private individual price) The cost is sure to be even less with a business license.
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http://www.realmsoftracon.com

[RyanPaddy]

[Seegras]